Jiao BarSee Address

Tucked down a dimly lit lane, pint-sized shochu bar Mokkos is one of the city’s best-loved ‘secrets’. Owners Eiichi and Kanoko Murakami embody its low-key charm and are often found proffering beer crates to seat-less punters. In fact, the only criticism is that there are never enough seats – hence the need for a new place.

At their new venture, Jiao Bar, seats and space are plentiful. Nestled way behind The Bund on Jinling Lu, a dark red corridor spits you into what feels like a designer’s rendering of Mokkos. The look’s similar – more red with low lighting and dark wooden screens – and there’s the familiar shochu wall behind the bar too. But the makeshift-seats and drop-stools have been traded in for grey suede high-backed chairs, and the wobbly mismatched tables swapped for perfectly square ones in matching teak. Despite the upmarket feel, Jiao retains an intimate vibe, with annexed-off chasitsu-style rooms (booths separated by dark wood shoji screens) that are cool but cosy.

Eiichi says a new drinks menu is under construction but our favourites so far are the zuisen plum (55RMB/glass) with subtle honey tones that linger after the plum's tartness. For more punch, order off menu. The awamori from Okinawa (typically 60 per cent proof) is pure battery acid. It’s made from distilled rice (like shochu) rather than brewed rice like sake. For a softer option, try a chuhai (shochu with fresh fruit, 35RMB/ glass). The grapefruit is packed with juicy pods while the honey is better for sweet-tooths. The perilla leaf sake (shiso-komachi, 45RMB/glass), which tastes like an extra citrusy mojito, is also zingy and light.

To soak up the booze, Jiao have introduced a selection of snacks: edamame beans, sweet potato chips, popcorn and the Kuma set (broad beans, dried squid, Japanese pickles and crisps) for 25RMB each.

Jiao doesn’t yet have the bustle or worn-in feel of Mokkos, and for now the atmosphere is a little sterile. The quality and charm behind the bar are still there however, and once it loses some of its too-new shine it could become one of our favourite Japanese bars in the city.

Charlotte Middlehurst