Just down the road from Madison’s, the yellow villa complex which sits opposite the Shanghai Conservatory of Music looks like one of the numerous former French Concession estates that are now solely the domain of the government. But despite the frosty exterior and the imposing gateway, the buildings actually house the Fenyang Garden Hotel. Inside the hotel itself, there’s the requisite over-priced Shanghainese restaurant, but a small gap in the wall a little way south of the main gate reveals a weekend-only café spot (look for the blackboard with the words ‘garden afternoon tea’ scrawled on it). The advertised afternoon tea set (from 108RMB/person) is a fairly average offering and the limited range of drinks available are on the expensive side (48RMB for a small Tsingtao for example), but in return you get to sit out on the small terrace at the back of the café, which opens out onto a glorious lawn stretching all the way back to the hotel proper and is one of the best-kept green spaces in the area. There are only a couple of tables, but it’s such a tucked away spot that you’re unlikely to have to compete for space.