ShunxingSee Address

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Yanan Xi Lu
Shunxing

Time Out says... 4 0Users say 0/5 Rate it

Published on 29 Jun 2012
Superior Sichuan dishes in a dramatic Chengdu teahouse-themed space

Incongruously stuck in the facade of a mall set back from dusty, congested Yanan Lu, is the massive carved wood and stone entryway to this stunner of a Sichuan restaurant. Enter the lobby and cross over a blue and white tile mosaic set in the dark marble floor. Waitstaff, in magenta embroidered costumes, greet you and send you upstairs to the vast dining room.

 

Here, blimp-shaped woven basket lanterns (modelled on silkworm cocoons) hang overhead, while underfoot lie more of that grey-brown marble, struck through with white, resembling lightning marks. Tiled eaves, gray stonework and sepia photographs line the walls. It's all meant to evoke an old Chengdu teahouse, remade on a grand, modern scale with seats for 800.

 

From 7.40pm to 8.10pm every night, Chengdu actors in gorgeous embroidered costumes perform Sichuan opera. The only bizarre note is the modern 'interpretation' of the traditional music: some of it is set to a pumping house beat and it's too loud for conversation if you're nearby. For just a taste of it, you can sit on the other side of the dining room and walk over for a glimpse of the action or to take a photo.

 

The waitstaff are exceedingly gracious and enthusiastic from start to finish. And the fabulous food is best of all. If it all feels spectacularly polished for a new restaurant, it's because this is an established brand in Chengdu where its two branches are landmarks and tourist attractions. The same chef who worked at the Chengdu restaurant for a decade now heads the kitchens in Shanghai; they've even brought 70 per cent of the waitstaff from Chengdu.

 

Other than adding some Shanghai dishes, the menu is very similar to the original, and you can hardly go wrong. The fatty translucent pork slices of the popular da dao guazi rou (38RMB) are laid in an incredible chili bath with crushed peanuts and chives, showing a masterful balance of heat and fragrance. Ribs, in a sticky coat of glutinous rice (maxiang paigu, 78RMB), are fall-apart tender after being steamed in a bamboo basket. Delicious sautéed garlic festoons the vermicelli with baby cabbage (fensi wawa cai, 48RMB).

 

Shunxing makes for a delicious, fun meal, a great place to bring visitors, and an inexpensive route to sampling some of Chengdu's traditions.

 

Crystyl Mo

Details

Open
10.30am-9.30pm daily

Telephone 6213 8988

Metro Yanan Xi Lu

English address 1088 Yanan Xi Lu, near Panyu Lu, Changning district

Chinese address 顺兴,长宁区延安西路1088号,近番禺路

Comment

Posted by : 顺不高兴 on 09/07/2012 17:25:06
Went here recently and it seems standards are slipping a bit. The chashugu mushroom dish has been replaced by a pale imitation and when we asked the waitress about it, she said right away "it"s not as good as before right?" If she knew that, why were they still serving it? The old version is still pictured on the menu under the recommended dishes, but instead you get this new one. The dadaoguazirou was still awesome but the table next to us also had a big argument with the manager over waiting 30 minutes or more for a dish. Maybe it"s because we were there a bit late. This place has been one of my favorites since it opened, so hopefully this was just a blip...

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