With the weather in September perfect for exploring, Time Out heads to Shanghai's oft-forgotten districts north of Suzhou Creek
830 Yangshupu Lu, near Huaide Lu, Yangpu district
Having destroyed much of its industrial heritage by bulldozing old factories and workers’ homes, Yangpu, together with neighbouring districts Hongkou and Baoshan, has recently gone on a museum building binge resulting in the good (Shanghai Museum of Glass), the bad (Dairy Museum – now closed) and the downright weird (National Anthem Gallery, China Tobacco Museum).
Unfortunately, the Waterworks Museum on Yangshupu Lu hovers dangerously close to the middle category. A familiar blend of waxwork figures, Chinese-only TV screens and broken interactive exhibits make up the museum itself, but it’s worth visiting to see the glorious 1920s buildings that it’s housed in. Still in operation, many of these buildings are disappointingly off limits, but their mock castle brickwork is still attractive and you can catch glimpses of the waterworks through the windows. If you can evade the baoan out the back for long enough, large pools of water and hulking machinery stretch all the way down to the Huangpu.
Shanghai University of Sport, 399 Changhai Lu, near Nenjiang Lu, Yangpu district
Appropriately located in the Shanghai University of Sport (a beautiful campus that was once the seat of the Kuomintang government; see our KMT New City walk), the Wushu Museum aims at giving a potted history of Chinese martial arts. While it fails at this, it succeeds in presenting one of the most animated interactive rooms we’ve seen since the Shanghai Science and Technology Museum.
In contrast to a dull first floor stuffed with Ming dynasty artefacts, the whole second floor is devoted to movement: practice your kicks on wooden posts, box on dummies, learn the basics behind hand positions and sharpen your hand-to-eye coordination on a light-powered, wall-sized version of Whack Attack. Note that many of the displays lack English translations.
Yangshupu Lu Police Station
362 Longchang Lu, near Pingliang Lu, Yangpu district
Admittedly, we’ve stretched the definition of museum a fair way with this entry (
see more actual museums here). However, the former British Yangshupu Lu police station, now known as the Longchang Apartments, is a fascinating, living, breathing ‘museum’ of sorts.
Built by the British in the 1920s, the buildings became the headquarters for the Yangpu district branch of the Shanghai Security Bureau following the founding of the People’s Republic of China before finally being converted into the bustling apartments they are today. With over 200 families crammed into the space, the buzzing structure was reputedly the inspiration behind Stephen Chow’s film Kung Fu Hustle (2004).
Corner of Qujiang Lu and Baoshan Lu, Zhabei district
Shanghai Jinqiao Computer Market (also known as Qujiang Lu Market), has been going since 1955. While some stock appears to date back to the same decade, there are cracking deals to be had, though be prepared for poor ventilation and hard bargaining. You can also take your old computer to be recycled, repaired, or even cleaned for around 50RMB. Few stalls have actual names, instead there are signs advertising available products, but among them you can pick up 4GB USB memory sticks for 30-50RMB, half the price of some inner city outlets; small 40GB external hard drives for 100RMB; or more readily available 320GB ones for 430RMB.
Fourth Floor, 28 Tianmu Zhong Lu, near Wuzhen Lu, Huangpu district
On the top floor of this innocuous-looking Traditional Chinese Medicine shopping mall is an entire floor dedicated to adult toys – ranging from the ridiculous (plastic vaginas) to the high-end Lelo vibrators (800RMB). Elsewhere, cheap naughty undies and herbal aphrodisiacs are available, too.
Tongchuan Lu, near Caoyang Lu, Putuo district
Navigating the crustacean-crammed corridors of Tongchuan can be overwhelming, but the sheer spectacle – and deals on lobster – make it worth a trip. Hard hagglers can bag Pacific oysters for 5RMB and Canadian lobster for 200RMB/jin (around 600RMB/lobster). In autumn there are hairy crabs (dazha xie; medium-sized crabs 110RMB/kg) and mantis shrimp. Restaurants outside specialise in cooking up your catch; we like Xin Jiulong Tang (6254 2268) on Tongchuan Lu itself.
2000 Jungong Lu, near Yinhang Lu, Yangpu district
Gongqing, in northern Yangpu district, is still one of our favourite parks for its large, open stretches of grass and cool forests.
The park also boasts a great range of activities such as a loop-the-loop rollercoaster (25RMB), rock climbing (25RMB), paintball (25RMB/five bullets), go karting (25RMB/lap) and a fun electronic toboggan ride (20RMB). You can even stay the night in one of the cabins at the Hongsen Forest Park Hotel (rooms from 180RMB; villas from 680RMB).
1 Huandao Lu, near Zhenhutai Lu, Baoshan district
Gucun Park opened at the end of Line 7 last year and features a maze of forests, pathways, lakes and canals that stretch over 1.7 kmsq. Now is a good time to take advantage of the 60 barbecue pits. A pit costs 90RMB/six people, 180RMB/15 people, includes charcoal. Plus, meat and fish (12-15RMB/two skewers) and vegetables (3-6RMB) are available with beer and ice creams, too. Also, there are inflatable hamster wheels on water (20RMB/eight minutes); tandem bikes (20RMB/hour, plus 300RMB deposit); and a fairground zone to keep kids entertained.
Guyi Park
218 Huyi Gong Lu, near Guyi Yuan Lu, Jiading district
Nanxiang lays claim to being the birthplace of the xiaolongbao and therefore has an entire street dedicated to the soup-filled dumplings beside the Ming dynasty gardens of Guyi Park. You’ll find dozens of xiaolongbao restaurants lining Guyi Yuan Lu (which has been demarcated as a ‘healthy street’ by the local government) all with near-identical steamers outside their front door offering the snack.
Beside the park itself, Guyi Yuan Restaurant (218 Huyi Gong Lu, near Guyi Yuan Lu, 5912 1335) – notable for its grand, temple-like building and statues of xiaolongbao mascots Nannan and Xiangxiang – will do you a steamer of 20 Nanxiang xiaolongbao for 20RMB, or ten crab dumplings for 15RMB.
Once you’ve had your fill of xiaolongbao, Guyi Park (entry 12RMB) provides a pleasant setting for a post-snack stroll. Originally constructed by an officer in the Ming dynasty, the collection of landscaped gardens, teahouses and corridors all surrounding a central stretch of lily pad-laden water have been rebuilt and expanded a number of times, but remains an atmospheric place and is well worth a visit.
