Drunk Uncle

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Critics' pick
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46 Changhua Lu
While for some, the name might bring to mind images of an inebriated family member staggering ungainly across the dancefloor at a cousin’s wedding, Drunk Uncle is an impeccably stylish newcomer to Jingan district’s bar scene that hardly puts a foot wrong. Co-owned by Bono Zhang, founder of the Where What Who fashion label and frontman of local garage rock band Banana Monkey, the bar opened at the start of August and is already filled most nights with trendy designer and artsy types (a tag that also applies to many of the staff). It’s an unpretentious, laidback hangout however, with a layout and feel that owes more than a tip of the hat to the classic Japanese izakaya model.

Clean, straight lines and smooth wooden surfaces dominate the space, with tables and bar seating surrounding a large square bar area. A small menu of izakaya-like snacks is available – including a classic pork and rice bowl (35RMB) and a more unusual tripe burger (65RMB) – but Drunk Uncle’s main focus is the range of imported beers. Indeed, the drinks menu features little else.

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The on-tap offerings feature familiar brands such as Japanese lager Asahi (35RMB) and Irish stout Murphy’s (65RMB) alongside Holland’s excellent La Trappe (45RMB) and Germany’s equally impressive Weihenstephan (65RMB). The former is also available in bottles with the dubbel (7 per cent ABV, 58RMB), tripel (8 per cent ABV, 58RMB) and quadrupel (10 per cent ABV, 65RMB) varieties all stocked. The latter, a light golden-coloured wheat beer with a hint of fruit in the aftertaste, comes from the world’s oldest continuously operating brewery (originally founded in 768 in Bavaria). As you’d expect, Weihenstephan have perfected their formula over that time, making for an excellent pint.

Among the bottles there are plenty of Belgian and German options, but also a strong showing from British brand Samuel Smith’s. Usually something of a budget label in the UK, such low prices there are not necessarily an indicator of the quality of the product, and we’re particularly partial to the rich Imperial Stout (65RMB). For something a little lighter, Drunk Uncle also serves the brand’s organic cider (90RMB), a medium dry variety with a smooth fruity taste, alongside their sweeter apricot, strawberry and cherry ales (90RMB) – pricey, but at 550ml big enough to share.

Bar staff are generally quick with recommendations if you’re unsure (or simply can’t be bothered to vacate your seat to crane your neck at the blackboard menus dotted around the space), but part of the pleasure of a visit to Drunk Uncle is making your way through some of the lesser-known varieties of beer available. Such a voyage of beery discovery may not come cheap, but the drinks are generally set at the price points we’ve come to expect for imports of this quality thanks to the likes of Kaiba. And with the range of beers on offer, Drunk Uncle is undoubtedly a very welcome addition to Shanghai’s bar family.
Venue name: Drunk Uncle
Contact:
Opening hours: 4pm-2am daily
Metro: Nanjing Xi Lu
English address: 46 Changhua Lu, near Wuding Lu, Jingan district
Chinese address: 静安区昌化路46号, 近武定路