Like any good Mediterranean friend, Pirata offers you lots of cured, smoked, pickled and preserved things, from sobrassada, Iberico ham and Spanish cheeses to sardines and anchovies; olives, balsamic onions and stuffed cherry peppers in pools of olive oil. In truth, popping in for charcuterie picks and Spanish wine is a great shout. That said, you’ll be easily seduced by chargrilled, plancha and warm one-pot cazuela dishes: the chorizo and duck rice is worth the noted 45-minute wait, and something sexy happens when crunchy, oily garlic breadcrumbs mingle with runny orange yolks of fried eggs with asparagus migas.