Chez Coco

  • Restaurants
  • Western
  • Contemporary/Fusion
570 Yongjia Lu

Located in the second-floor space above Pizza Express at Surpass Court, Chez Coco sells itself as a ‘fusion’ restaurant, but there’s actually very little ‘fusion’ taking place here. There’s a range of Western offerings and a series of Chinese dishes, but they’re very much split on a menu that prefers a clear divide to a blurring of boundaries. And that’s fine, because instead of trying to crowbar a few Chinese ingredients into Western dishes or vice versa, Chez Coco does a competent job of producing quality dishes in separate cuisine categories.

The two sets of dishes do share some characteristics however, with this simply decorated restaurant putting an emphasis on one-pot meals. On the Western side, this means dishes such as a ‘German-style’ pork knuckle amid an array of roasted vegetables (208RMB); on the Chinese side, it manifests as (very sweet) coconut broth hotpots with various meats and vegetables available for adding (from 168RMB for chicken).

If those prices look a little steep, such concerns are tempered by the fact that one pot will easily sate the appetites of two people. The aforementioned pork knuckle for example, features a generous portion of meat atop a dauphinoiselike bed of potato, along with carrots, green beans and more potato (roasted this time). It’s a touch salty, but is a hearty, filling dish; add in some of Chez Coco’s intriguing appetisers – such as the cold Moroccan-style (cooked) chicken ‘tartare’ (48RMB), or the more successful smoked salmon and mashed potato (58RMB) – and you could easily stretch it to feed three or four diners.

Be careful though, you’ll want to leave room for dessert, if only to stop the look of disappointment that spreads across the staff’s faces if you tell them you can’t manage another course. Chez Coco is proud of their sweets, you see. The creations from their Cordon Bleu-certified pastry chef aren’t mind blowing, but the encased mousse sphere of the ‘Chocolate Prince Star’ (88RMB) is nevertheless a rich, beautifully presented treat worth ordering if you want to end your meal on a sweet note.

You’re unlikely to travel across town for a dinner at Chez Coco, but it’s a good neighbourhood option for those in the area, and well worth a look.

By Jake Newby

Venue name: Chez Coco
Opening hours: 11am-2pm, 5-10pm daily
Mobile: 185 1621 2676
Metro: Hengshan Lu
English address: Unit 121, Surpass Court, 570 Yongjia Lu, near Yueyang Lu, Xuhui district
Chinese address: 徐汇区永嘉路570号121号楼, 近岳阳路