Located in the second-floor space
above Pizza Express at Surpass
Court, Chez Coco sells itself as
a ‘fusion’ restaurant, but there’s
actually very little ‘fusion’ taking
place here. There’s a range of
Western offerings and a series
of Chinese dishes, but they’re
very much split on a menu that
prefers a clear divide to a blurring
of boundaries. And that’s fine,
because instead of trying to crowbar
a few Chinese ingredients into
Western dishes or vice versa, Chez
Coco does a competent job of
producing quality dishes in separate
cuisine categories.
The two sets of dishes do share
some characteristics however, with
this simply decorated restaurant
putting an emphasis on one-pot
meals. On the Western side, this
means dishes such as a ‘German-style’
pork knuckle amid an array of
roasted vegetables (208RMB); on the Chinese side, it manifests as
(very sweet) coconut broth hotpots
with various meats and vegetables
available for adding (from 168RMB
for chicken).
If those prices look a little steep,
such concerns are tempered by
the fact that one pot will easily
sate the appetites of two people.
The aforementioned pork knuckle
for example, features a generous
portion of meat atop a dauphinoiselike
bed of potato, along with
carrots, green beans and more
potato (roasted this time). It’s a
touch salty, but is a hearty, filling
dish; add in some of Chez Coco’s
intriguing appetisers – such as
the cold Moroccan-style (cooked)
chicken ‘tartare’ (48RMB), or the
more successful smoked salmon
and mashed potato (58RMB) – and
you could easily stretch it to feed
three or four diners.
Be careful though, you’ll want
to leave room for dessert, if only to
stop the look of disappointment that
spreads across the staff’s faces
if you tell them you can’t manage
another course. Chez Coco is
proud of their sweets, you see. The
creations from their Cordon Bleu-certified
pastry chef aren’t mind
blowing, but the encased mousse
sphere of the ‘Chocolate Prince Star’
(88RMB) is nevertheless a rich,
beautifully presented treat worth
ordering if you want to end your meal
on a sweet note.
You’re unlikely to travel across
town for a dinner at Chez Coco, but
it’s a good neighbourhood option for
those in the area, and well worth a
look.
By Jake Newby
